Hörnli ridge · Swiss side
SAC lists 4–5 hours and about 1,200 m of ascent from Hörnlihütte. Its descent is separately listed at 4–5 hours. These are reference times, not a personal schedule.
Europe / Pennine Alps
Matterhorn
Switzerland / Italy · 4,478 m
Photo credits and licence
Gianluca Miscione · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Cervino cloud. Preview cropped from the top.Source credit: Gianluca Miscione
Any adaptation of a ShareAlike image remains under its linked licence.
Source-linked route information · coverage incomplete
Continue with a planning or regional guide: Alps mountain guide
About Matterhorn
A pyramidal border summit above Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia. Four major ridges define its climbing terrain, with separate Swiss and Italian summits.
Geographic source notes
Wikidata description: mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Imported context (CC0); retrieved 2026-10-05, not independently reviewed.
This profile includes selected editorial climbing references.
Mountain facts
- Elevation
- 4478 metres above sea level
- Country / territory
- Switzerland / Italy
- Mountain range
- Pennine Alps
- Range assignment
- Source-linked Wikidata statement · 2026-10-05
- Summit coordinates
- 45.9763, 7.6586 · View summit on OpenStreetMap
Routes and variants
13 source-linked entries · research checked 2026-10-05. The inventory remains incomplete.
Documented information and open research
Starting point: 6 of 13 · Difficulty with grading system: 13 of 13 · Elevation gain: 5 of 13 · Duration: 6 of 13 · Season: 0 of 13
7 historical entries. These counts describe published entries, not all possible routes. Current access is not established.
See route research coverage and priorities →Compare 13 routes
Grades retain their published rating system; different systems and historical grades are not equivalent. Elevation gain means climbing metres, not summit altitude. Missing figures are not estimated.
Scroll sideways to compare all columns. Select a route name for its details.
| Route | Activity / direction | Difficulty / system | Starting point | Elevation gain | Duration | Sources |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hörnli ridge | AlpinismAscent | ZS+SAC alpine overall grade · German notation | Hörnlihütte | 1,200 mAscent from Hörnlihütte | 4–5 hAscent from Hörnlihütte | Source 1 ↗ |
| Lion ridge | AlpinismAscent | ZS+SAC alpine overall grade · German notation | Rifugio Carrel | 600 mAscent from Rifugio Carrel | 5–6 hAscent from Rifugio Carrel | Source 1 ↗ |
| Zmutt ridge via Hörnlihütte | AlpinismAscent | SSAC alpine overall grade · German notation | Hörnlihütte | 1,380 mAscent from Hörnlihütte; source also lists 160 m descent | 6 hAscent from Hörnlihütte; source also lists 160 m descent | Source 1 ↗ |
| Zmutt ridge via Lonza bivouac | AlpinismAscent | SSAC alpine overall grade · German notation | Lonza bivouac | 1,500 mAscent from Lonza bivouac | 5–6 hAscent from Lonza bivouac | Source 1 ↗ |
| Hörnli ridge descent | AlpinismDescent | ZS+SAC alpine overall grade · German notation | Matterhorn summit | Not documented | 4–5 hDescent from summit; source lists 1,200 m descent | Source 1 ↗ |
| Lion ridge descent | AlpinismDescent | ZS+SAC alpine overall grade · German notation | Matterhorn summit | 50 mDescent itinerary; source lists 1,700 m descent and 50 m ascent | 3:45–6 hDescent itinerary; source lists 1,700 m descent and 50 m ascent | Source 1 ↗ |
| Schmid north-face lineHistorical listing · 2010 | AlpinismAscent | SS / 5aSAC 2010 guidebook notation | Not documented | Not documented | Not documented | Source 1 ↗ |
| Bonatti north-face lineHistorical listing · 2010 | AlpinismAscent | AS / 5cSAC 2010 guidebook notation | Not documented | Not documented | Not documented | Source 1 ↗ |
| North face via Zmutt noseHistorical listing · 2010 | AlpinismAscent | AS+ / 6aSAC 2010 guidebook notation | Not documented | Not documented | Not documented | Source 1 ↗ |
| Zmutt nose direct lineHistorical listing · 2010 | AlpinismAscent | AS / 5c+SAC 2010 guidebook notation | Not documented | Not documented | Not documented | Source 1 ↗ |
| Furgg ridgeHistorical listing · 2010 | AlpinismAscent | S+ / 4aSAC 2010 guidebook notation | Not documented | Not documented | Not documented | Source 1 ↗ |
| Picco Muzio south-southeast pillarHistorical listing · 2010 | AlpinismAscent | SS+ / 5bSAC 2010 guidebook notation | Not documented | Not documented | Not documented | Source 1 ↗ |
| Furgg ridge shoulder variantHistorical listing · 2010 | AlpinismAscent | SS+ / 5cSAC 2010 guidebook notation | Not documented | Not documented | Not documented | Source 1 ↗ |
Choose an activity to see its entries. Ascent, descent, approaches and historical climbing lines are labelled separately.
Alpinism (13)
Hörnli ridgeAlpinism · Ascent · ZS+
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Hörnlihütte
- Difficulty
- ZS+ · SAC alpine overall grade · German notation · Published German route listing; not converted to another notation
- Elevation gain
- 1,200 m · Ascent from Hörnlihütte
- Duration
- 4–5 h · Ascent from Hörnlihütte
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Hörnli ridge · German route listing · source checked 2026-10-05
The source establishes a route listing. Detailed navigation, current protection and conditions require the original reference.
Lion ridgeAlpinism · Ascent · ZS+
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Rifugio Carrel
- Difficulty
- ZS+ · SAC alpine overall grade · German notation · Published German route listing; not converted to another notation
- Elevation gain
- 600 m · Ascent from Rifugio Carrel
- Duration
- 5–6 h · Ascent from Rifugio Carrel
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Lion ridge · German route listing · source checked 2026-10-05
The source establishes a route listing. Detailed navigation, current protection and conditions require the original reference.
Zmutt ridge via HörnlihütteAlpinism · Ascent · S
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Hörnlihütte
- Difficulty
- S · SAC alpine overall grade · German notation · Published German route listing; not converted to another notation
- Elevation gain
- 1,380 m · Ascent from Hörnlihütte; source also lists 160 m descent
- Duration
- 6 h · Ascent from Hörnlihütte; source also lists 160 m descent
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Zmutt ridge via Hörnlihütte · German route listing · source checked 2026-10-05
The source establishes a route listing. Detailed navigation, current protection and conditions require the original reference.
Zmutt ridge via Lonza bivouacAlpinism · Ascent · S
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Lonza bivouac
- Difficulty
- S · SAC alpine overall grade · German notation · Published German route listing; not converted to another notation
- Elevation gain
- 1,500 m · Ascent from Lonza bivouac
- Duration
- 5–6 h · Ascent from Lonza bivouac
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Zmutt ridge via Lonza bivouac · German route listing · source checked 2026-10-05
The source establishes a route listing. Detailed navigation, current protection and conditions require the original reference.
Hörnli ridge descentAlpinism · Descent · ZS+
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Descent
- Starting point
- Matterhorn summit
- Difficulty
- ZS+ · SAC alpine overall grade · German notation · Published German route listing; not converted to another notation
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- 4–5 h · Descent from summit; source lists 1,200 m descent
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Hörnli ridge descent · German route listing · source checked 2026-10-05
The source establishes a route listing. Detailed navigation, current protection and conditions require the original reference.
Lion ridge descentAlpinism · Descent · ZS+
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Descent
- Starting point
- Matterhorn summit
- Difficulty
- ZS+ · SAC alpine overall grade · German notation · Published German route listing; not converted to another notation
- Elevation gain
- 50 m · Descent itinerary; source lists 1,700 m descent and 50 m ascent
- Duration
- 3:45–6 h · Descent itinerary; source lists 1,700 m descent and 50 m ascent
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Lion ridge descent · German route listing · source checked 2026-10-05
The source establishes a route listing. Detailed navigation, current protection and conditions require the original reference.
Schmid north-face lineAlpinism · Ascent · SS / 5a · archive 2010
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Not established from the checked source
- Difficulty
- SS / 5a · SAC 2010 guidebook notation · Historical archive entry; current grade and equipment not rechecked
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- Not established from the checked source
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Matterhorn route overview and archive · source checked 2026-10-05
Historical listing; a route name or old grade does not confirm the current line, protection or completion.
Bonatti north-face lineAlpinism · Ascent · AS / 5c · archive 2010
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Not established from the checked source
- Difficulty
- AS / 5c · SAC 2010 guidebook notation · Historical archive entry; current grade and equipment not rechecked
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- Not established from the checked source
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Matterhorn route overview and archive · source checked 2026-10-05
Historical listing; a route name or old grade does not confirm the current line, protection or completion.
North face via Zmutt noseAlpinism · Ascent · AS+ / 6a · archive 2010
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Not established from the checked source
- Difficulty
- AS+ / 6a · SAC 2010 guidebook notation · Historical archive entry; current grade and equipment not rechecked
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- Not established from the checked source
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Matterhorn route overview and archive · source checked 2026-10-05
Historical listing; a route name or old grade does not confirm the current line, protection or completion.
Zmutt nose direct lineAlpinism · Ascent · AS / 5c+ · archive 2010
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Not established from the checked source
- Difficulty
- AS / 5c+ · SAC 2010 guidebook notation · Historical archive entry; current grade and equipment not rechecked
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- Not established from the checked source
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Matterhorn route overview and archive · source checked 2026-10-05
Historical listing; a route name or old grade does not confirm the current line, protection or completion.
Furgg ridgeAlpinism · Ascent · S+ / 4a · archive 2010
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Not established from the checked source
- Difficulty
- S+ / 4a · SAC 2010 guidebook notation · Historical archive entry; current grade and equipment not rechecked
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- Not established from the checked source
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Matterhorn route overview and archive · source checked 2026-10-05
Historical listing; a route name or old grade does not confirm the current line, protection or completion.
Picco Muzio south-southeast pillarAlpinism · Ascent · SS+ / 5b · archive 2010
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Not established from the checked source
- Difficulty
- SS+ / 5b · SAC 2010 guidebook notation · Historical archive entry; current grade and equipment not rechecked
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- Not established from the checked source
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Matterhorn route overview and archive · source checked 2026-10-05
Historical listing; a route name or old grade does not confirm the current line, protection or completion.
Furgg ridge shoulder variantAlpinism · Ascent · SS+ / 5c · archive 2010
- Activity
- Alpinism
- Direction / role
- Ascent
- Starting point
- Not established from the checked source
- Difficulty
- SS+ / 5c · SAC 2010 guidebook notation · Historical archive entry; current grade and equipment not rechecked
- Elevation gain
- Not established from the checked source
- Duration
- Not established from the checked source
- Season
- Not established from the checked source
- Current access
- Not checked for current use
SAC · Matterhorn route overview and archive · source checked 2026-10-05
Historical listing; a route name or old grade does not confirm the current line, protection or completion.
Route questions, answered
Specific planning questions, with the scope of each source kept visible.
Hörnli or Lion ridge: which hut does each route use?
The SAC lists the Hörnli ascent from Hörnlihütte and the Lion ascent from Rifugio Carrel. Both carry ZS+ in the German listing, but the starting points and itineraries differ. A shared grade does not establish which route suits your experience or today’s conditions.
SAC · Hörnli ridge · German route listing · SAC · Lion ridge · German route listing
Does the Hörnli ridge’s 4–5 hours include the descent?
No. The ascent listing gives 4–5 hours from Hörnlihütte. The SAC separately lists 4–5 hours for the summit-to-hut descent. The hut approach, pauses and delays are additional; neither estimate is a guaranteed schedule.
SAC · Hörnli ridge · German route listing · SAC · Hörnli ridge descent · German route listing
Where can I find the detailed Hörnli ridge route description?
The SAC names the ascent from Hörnlihütte and a separate descent itinerary. Its detailed route page requires a subscription or qualifying membership. Our short comparison does not reproduce a topo or replace the full guide; consult the linked route and local sources for detailed planning.
Climbing Chronicle Redaktion · Sources checked · Source research; current route conditions are not confirmed.
Hörnli or Lion ridge?
Choose the approach side and hut logistics first, then compare current conditions with local guides. Neither normal route is a hiking trail; a lower hut-to-summit height gain is not evidence of an easier climb.
Lion ridge · Italian side
SAC lists 5–6 hours and about 600 m of ascent from Rifugio Carrel. Alpine difficulties already occur on the approach to the hut. Guide del Cervino describes a usual two-day trip with one hut night.
SAC · Matterhorn route grades · Guide del Cervino · Carrel hut
Planning at a glance
Access and starting point
Hörnli uses the Zermatt side and Hörnlihütte. Lion uses the Breuil-Cervinia side and Carrel hut; the hut operator says alpine terrain starts below the hut and requires reservations.
SAC · Matterhorn route grades · Guide del Cervino · Carrel hut
Difficulty and required experience
SAC lists both normal ridges as ZS+ (Swiss alpine overall grade). That does not make their climbing identical: compare approach, hut logistics, route-finding and the descent, rather than choosing by grade alone.
Season and restrictions
The Hörnlihütte operator currently lists 25 June–18 September for its 2027 opening. This is a planned hut window, not a guarantee of ridge conditions. Check the year and reservation status directly. The Carrel hut operator publishes separate operational updates.
Hörnlihütte · operation and reservations · Guide del Cervino · Carrel hut
Sources for current information
- Hörnlihütte · operation and reservations
Hut operator; confirm opening and availability directly
- Guide del Cervino · Carrel hut
Hut operator; access, reservations and local enquiries
- SLF · Swiss avalanche bulletin
Swiss regional snow and avalanche information; select the correct area
Regional weather and warning resources
Selected by the recorded country. Check geographic coverage and elevation; these links do not confirm access or conditions on this summit.
- SLF · Swiss avalanche bulletin
Swiss regional snow and avalanche information; select the correct area
This page stores reference sources, not live conditions. Check the provider’s publication date and route coverage before use.
First documented ascent
14 July 1865
Edward Whymper, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, Lord Francis Douglas, Michel Croz, Peter Taugwalder senior and Peter Taugwalder junior.
The first documented ascent followed the Hörnli ridge. Four members of the seven-person summit party died during the descent.
Earlier local or Indigenous ascents may not be represented in the cited record.
Planning and access
Start with Zermatt Tourism and the SAC route portal for hut access, local guides and route descriptions. Verify current hut availability, weather and route conditions locally.
Terrain and hazards
Exposed climbing, loose rock and changing snow or ice conditions. This page does not report current conditions.
Sources and coverage
Editorial summaries with linked references. Data snapshot: 30 September 2026. Elevations and boundaries can differ between sources. Mountain-range membership follows explicit Wikidata relationships or a coordinate match against published GMBA v2 standard polygons. GMBA: Global Mountain Biodiversity Assessment (2021), CC BY 4.0; methodology: Snethlage et al. (2022). Missing evidence remains open.
- SAC · Lion ridge · German route listing
- SAC · Hörnli ridge · German route listing
- SAC · Hörnli ridge descent · German route listing
- Swiss Alpine Club · mountain and route portal
- SAC · Zmutt ridge via Lonza bivouac · German route listing
- SAC · Lion ridge descent · German route listing
- SAC · Zmutt ridge via Hörnlihütte · German route listing
- Zermatt Tourism · routes and planning
- Zermatt · first-ascent factsheet
- Wikidata record
- SLF · Swiss avalanche bulletin
- Guide del Cervino · Carrel hut
- Hörnlihütte · operation and reservations
- SAC · Matterhorn route grades
Explore the surrounding regions
Pennine Alps · Northwestern Alps · Western Alps · Alps · Central European Highlands · Alps · Pennine / Valais Alps · Mountains in Switzerland · Mountains in Italy
Editorial responsibility
Responsible publisher and editorial author: Climbing Chronicle Redaktion. AI-assisted source research; no on-site inspection or professional route approval is claimed.
- Route listing source check
- 2026-10-05 · partial inventory; current access remains open
- Planning source check
- 2026-10-05 · only the individually cited planning additions
- Earlier profile review
- Open · no complete editorial review recorded
- Imported context retrieved
- 2026-10-05 · automated retrieval, not an editorial review
How sources, authorship and review dates work
Further reading about Matterhorn
Links discovered through the Wikidata record. These articles have not been checked as evidence for route, difficulty or access claims.
Mountains nearby
Recorded mountains, ordered by straight-line distance. This does not describe a route or accessible connection.
1–20 of 303 recorded mountains within 25 km
- Picco Muzio · 0.2 km
- Pic Tyndall · 0.4 km
- Colle del Breuil · 0.9 km
- Testa del Leone · 1.3 km
- Furggen · 2.8 km
- Punta Maria Cristina · 3.0 km
- Punta Maquignaz · 3.2 km
- Hirli · 3.3 km
- Pointe Carrel · 3.4 km
- Punta Bianca · 3.6 km
- Unterer Blausatz · 3.8 km
- Gemsspitz · 3.9 km
- Furgghorn · 4.0 km
- Schwarzsee · 4.1 km
- Oberer Blausatz · 4.1 km
- Dent d'Hérens · 4.2 km
- Stockji · 4.2 km
- Rotturm · 4.7 km
- Schönbielhorn · 4.7 km
- Theodulhorn · 4.9 km