Hörnli ridge
Swiss normal route
Approached from the Hörnli hut. The line of the first ascent; consult the SAC route description for grades and a detailed itinerary.
Europe / Pennine Alps
Matterhorn
Switzerland / Italy · 4,478 m
Featured climbing reference
Source credit: Gianluca Miscione
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Mountain facts
- Elevation
- 4478 metres above sea level
- Country / territory
- Switzerland / Italy
- Mountain range
- Pennine Alps
- Summit coordinates
- 45.9763, 7.6586 · View summit on OpenStreetMap
A pyramidal border summit above Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia. Four major ridges define its climbing terrain, with separate Swiss and Italian summits.
Climbing routes
Lion ridge
Italian normal route
The standard approach from the Italian side. Fixed equipment does not remove the need for alpine climbing experience.
Zmutt ridge
Less-frequented ridge
A more demanding alternative to the normal routes. Detailed route information is linked through the SAC portal.
Furggen ridge
Less-frequented ridge
A challenging ridge with multiple variants. The route inventory here is not exhaustive.
First documented ascent
14 July 1865
Edward Whymper, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, Lord Francis Douglas, Michel Croz, Peter Taugwalder senior and Peter Taugwalder junior.
The first documented ascent followed the Hörnli ridge. Four members of the seven-person summit party died during the descent.
Earlier local or Indigenous ascents may not be represented in the cited record.
Planning and access
Start with Zermatt Tourism and the SAC route portal for hut access, local guides and route descriptions. Verify current hut availability, weather and route conditions locally.
Terrain and hazards
Exposed climbing, loose rock and changing snow or ice conditions. This page does not report current conditions.
Sources and coverage
Editorial summaries with linked references. Data snapshot: 30 September 2026. Elevations and boundaries can differ between sources.