West Buttress
Most frequently used route
First climbed in 1951 by Bradford Washburn and teammates. Glacier travel and exposed ice-covered ridges are central challenges.
North America / Alaska Range
United States · 6,190 m
Featured climbing reference
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North America’s highest summit, also known as Mount McKinley. An expedition mountain with large glaciers and a severe high-latitude environment.
Most frequently used route
First climbed in 1951 by Bradford Washburn and teammates. Glacier travel and exposed ice-covered ridges are central challenges.
Technical alternative
One of the three most frequently climbed routes identified by NPS. Read the NPS planning guidance before selecting an itinerary.
Technical alternative
A committing technical line. This atlas does not supply a route topo.
Historic first-ascent route
NPS warns that the 2021 glacier surge made part of the traditional route appear impassable. Check directly with rangers.
7 June 1913
Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, Hudson Stuck and Robert Tatum.
The four-person party reached the main south summit via the Muldrow Glacier. Walter Harper was the first of the party to reach the summit.
Earlier local or Indigenous ascents may not be represented in the cited record.
NPS requires advance climbing registration; its published guidance specifies at least 60 days. Confirm current rules, fees and orientation with the Talkeetna ranger station.
Crevasses, severe cold, altitude and exposed snow or ice terrain. Current ranger guidance takes precedence.
Editorial summaries with linked references. Data snapshot: 30 September 2026. Elevations and boundaries can differ between sources.